How to Grow Taro: Complete Planting & Harvest Guide

How to Grow Taro: Complete Planting & Harvest Guide

Taro is one of the oldest cultivated crops on Earth — grown for over 10,000 years across Southeast Asia, the Pacific Islands, and Africa. Known as kalo in Hawaiian, dasheen in the Caribbean, and colocasia in botanical circles, taro produces large, starchy underground corms that are a dietary staple for hundreds of millions of people worldwide. It is the source of Hawaiian poi, taro chips, taro bubble tea, and countless traditional dishes.

For home gardeners, taro is a stunning dual-purpose plant: the enormous elephant-ear leaves are ornamental showstoppers, while the underground corms and young leaves provide a unique, nutty-flavored starchy vegetable. The catch? Taro is a tropical plant that demands heat, moisture, and a long growing season.

Quick Facts

The Safety Rule: Always Cook Taro

Raw taro contains calcium oxalate crystals that cause intense burning and irritation of the mouth and throat. ALL parts of the plant — corms, stems, and leaves — must be thoroughly cooked before eating. Cooking breaks down the oxalate crystals completely. Cooked taro is perfectly safe and delicious. Wear gloves when handling raw corms if you have sensitive skin.

Edible vs Ornamental Varieties

Not all elephant ears are edible taro. Here is how to tell them apart:

Edible Taro (Colocasia esculenta):

• Leaves point downward (the "drip tip" faces down)
• Stem connects to the leaf where it meets the notch
• Corms are large, starchy, and edible when cooked
• Varieties: Bun Long, Lehua Maoli, Dasheen, Eddoe

Ornamental Elephant Ears (Alocasia, Xanthosoma):

• Leaves often point upward
• Different stem attachment point
• Corms are smaller and not typically eaten
• Grown purely for dramatic foliage

Buy from a food-specific source if you want edible taro. Many garden centers sell ornamental varieties that are technically edible but bred for looks, not flavor.

Best Edible Varieties

Bun Long — The most common edible taro in the US. Large corms, purple-flecked flesh. 9-12 months. Standard for taro chips and poi.

Dasheen — Caribbean variety. Large central corm with fewer side cormels. Rich, nutty flavor. 7-9 months. Good for shorter seasons.

Eddoe (Colocasia esculenta var. antiquorum) — Produces clusters of small cormels rather than one large corm. More cold-tolerant than dasheen types. 6-8 months. Best for marginal climates.

Lehua Maoli — Traditional Hawaiian variety. Pink-purple flesh. Premium poi taro. 10-12 months. Requires true tropical conditions.

Two Growing Methods

Method 1: Wetland/Paddy (Traditional)

Taro evolved in swampy conditions and grows beautifully in standing water:

1. Create a shallow bog — lined raised bed, kiddie pool, or pond margin
2. Maintain 2-4 inches of standing water over the soil surface
3. Rich, muddy soil beneath the water
4. Water temperature above 70°F for active growth

Pros: Fastest growth, largest corms, fewer pest problems, no weeding (weeds cannot grow submerged).

Cons: Requires water infrastructure, potential mosquito breeding (add mosquito dunks or fish).

Method 2: Dryland/Upland (Easier for Home Gardens)

Taro grows well in regular garden soil with consistent moisture:

1. Rich, amended soil with lots of compost
2. Keep soil consistently moist — never let it dry out
3. Heavy mulch (4-6 inches) to retain moisture
4. Regular watering — 2+ inches per week

Pros: No special infrastructure, works in regular garden beds and containers.

Cons: Slightly smaller corms, more weeding, must be vigilant about watering.

Step-by-Step Growing Guide

1. Sourcing Corms

Taro is grown from corms (the underground starchy root), not seeds:

• Buy from tropical plant nurseries or online suppliers
• Asian grocery stores — whole taro corms with intact growing points can be planted
• Save tops: When cooking taro, cut the top 2 inches (with the growing point) and plant it
• Choose corms with visible buds or growing points at the top

2. Starting Indoors (Cold Climates, Zones 5-8)

Start taro indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost to gain growing time:

1. Fill a large pot (5+ gallon) with rich potting mix
2. Plant corm 3 inches deep, growing point up
3. Keep soil very moist — almost soggy
4. Warmth is critical: 75-85°F. Use a heat mat. Taro will NOT grow in cool soil.
5. Bright light — south-facing window or grow lights
6. First leaves appear in 2-4 weeks

3. Transplanting Outdoors

1. Wait until soil is warm — 65°F minimum, 70°F+ ideal
2. 2-3 weeks after last frost (taro is very frost-sensitive)
3. Space plants 18-24 inches apart (they get BIG)
4. Plant at the same depth as the pot
5. Water heavily — taro cannot be overwatered
6. Mulch immediately with 4-6 inches of organic material

4. Growing Conditions

Sun: Full sun to partial shade. 6+ hours is ideal. Taro tolerates more shade than most vegetables — 4 hours of direct sun still works in hot climates.

Water: The single most important factor. Taro needs constant moisture:

• Dryland: 2+ inches per week, never let soil dry
• Wetland: 2-4 inches standing water
• Container: Water daily in hot weather
• Yellowing leaves = not enough water (the #1 mistake)

Soil: Rich, heavy soil is fine — taro thrives in clay. Amend with lots of compost. Slightly acidic to neutral (pH 5.5-7.0).

Fertilizer: Heavy feeder. Apply balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) monthly, or side-dress with compost every 6 weeks. In standing water, use slow-release fertilizer tablets pushed into the mud.

Temperature: Active growth above 70°F. Slows below 65°F. Stops below 55°F. Killed by frost. In marginal climates, use black plastic mulch to warm soil.

5. Container Growing (Zones 5-8)

Containers allow growing taro in cold climates and overwintering indoors:

• 15-25 gallon container minimum (taro gets big)
• Self-watering containers work perfectly
• Or set pot in a tray of water 2-3 inches deep
• Rich potting mix with extra compost
• Fertilize every 2 weeks (container nutrients deplete fast)
• Move indoors before frost — treat as a houseplant in winter
• Or harvest corms in fall and store for spring replanting

Harvesting

When to Harvest

Taro signals readiness by:

• Leaves yellowing and declining (after 7-12 months of growth)
• Plant stops producing new leaves
• Corm feels firm when you probe around the base
• In cold climates: harvest before first frost regardless of maturity

Short-season strategy (Zones 5-8): Harvest at 6-7 months. Corms will be smaller but still edible. Eddoe varieties mature fastest.

How to Harvest

1. Cut all foliage down to 6 inches above the corm
2. Loosen soil around the plant with a garden fork (go wide)
3. Lift the entire corm carefully — they can be large and heavy (2-10 lbs)
4. Separate cormels (small side corms) — save some for replanting
5. Brush off soil — do not wash until ready to cook
6. Save the top 2 inches of corm with growing point for next season

Harvesting Leaves

Young taro leaves are edible when thoroughly cooked (boiled 45+ minutes or until completely soft):

• Harvest outer leaves, leaving 3-4 inner leaves for continued growth
• Young, light-colored leaves are most tender
• Used in Hawaiian lau lau, Caribbean callaloo, and Filipino laing
• NEVER eat raw — calcium oxalate causes severe mouth irritation

Storage

• Fresh corms: Cool, dry place (55-60°F) for 1-2 months. Do NOT refrigerate.
• Cooked taro: Refrigerate 3-5 days, or freeze for months
• For replanting: Store corms in slightly damp peat moss at 55-60°F over winter

Common Problems and Solutions

Yellowing Leaves

The #1 taro problem — almost always means insufficient water.

Fix: Water more frequently. Taro in ground needs 2+ inches per week. In containers, water daily in hot weather. If growing in standing water, ensure water level stays at 2-4 inches. Only other cause: nitrogen deficiency — fertilize.

Small Corms

Caused by: short growing season, insufficient water, not enough fertilizer, too much shade.

Fix: Start indoors 6-8 weeks early, use black plastic mulch, grow in the hottest sunny spot, fertilize monthly, never let soil dry out. In short-season areas, grow Eddoe varieties (6-8 months vs 10-12).

Spider Mites

Small pests causing stippled, yellowing leaves with fine webbing. Common in dry conditions.

Fix: Increase humidity (mist leaves, grow near water). Strong spray of water on undersides of leaves. Taro grown in wetland conditions rarely gets spider mites.

Taro Beetle / Root Aphids

Insects feeding on corms underground, causing rot or poor quality.

Fix: Crop rotation — do not plant taro in the same spot for 2-3 years. Remove and destroy affected corms. Healthy, well-watered plants resist most pests.

Frost Damage

Taro is killed by any frost — even a light freeze blackens leaves instantly.

Fix: Monitor weather in fall. Cover with row covers for light frost, or harvest immediately if hard frost threatens. Container plants should be moved indoors before first frost.

Taro Around the World

Taro is a global staple prepared in dozens of ways:

• Hawaii: Poi (steamed, mashed, fermented taro paste) — sacred cultural food
• Japan: Satoimo — simmered in dashi broth
• India: Arbi — fried or curried
• Caribbean: Callaloo soup (taro leaves), boiled dasheen
• Philippines: Laing (taro leaves in coconut milk), sinigang
• West Africa: Fufu (pounded taro), cocoyam porridge
• Southeast Asia: Taro desserts, bubble tea flavoring, taro chips

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I grow taro from grocery store taro root?

Yes — if the corm has an intact growing point. Look for whole taro roots in Asian grocery stores (not peeled or frozen). Choose firm corms with a visible bud or growing point at the top. Plant 3 inches deep in warm, moist soil. Grocery store taro may be waxed — scrub gently to remove any wax coating near the growing point. Germination rates are lower than nursery corms but it works.

How long does taro take to grow?

Taro needs 7-12 months from planting to harvest — one of the longest-season crops. Dasheen types mature in 7-9 months, traditional Hawaiian varieties need 10-12 months, and Eddoe types are fastest at 6-8 months. In cold climates (Zones 5-8), start indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost and harvest at 6-7 months for smaller but edible corms.

Can I grow taro in a cold climate?

Yes, with effort. In Zones 5-8: start corms indoors in March, transplant after last frost, grow in the hottest spot, use black plastic mulch, and harvest before first frost in fall. Container growing is ideal — you can move plants indoors. Choose Eddoe varieties (shortest season). Expect smaller corms than tropical growers get, but still very rewarding. In Zones 5-6, a heated greenhouse or high tunnel extends the season significantly.

Is taro the same as elephant ears?

Sort of. Edible taro is Colocasia esculenta — one species of elephant ear. But "elephant ear" is a common name used for several genera including Colocasia, Alocasia, and Xanthosoma, not all of which are commonly eaten. If you want to eat your harvest, make sure you are growing Colocasia esculenta varieties bred for food (Bun Long, Dasheen, Eddoe). Ornamental elephant ears are technically edible but have smaller, less palatable corms.

Can I eat taro leaves?

Yes — but they MUST be thoroughly cooked. Raw taro leaves contain calcium oxalate crystals that cause severe mouth and throat irritation. Cooking (boiling 45+ minutes, or slow-cooking) breaks down the crystals completely. Cooked taro leaves are nutritious and delicious — used in Hawaiian lau lau, Caribbean callaloo, and Filipino laing. Harvest young, outer leaves and leave inner leaves for plant growth.

How much water does taro need?

More than almost any other crop. Taro evolved in swampy, waterlogged conditions. In dryland growing, provide at least 2 inches of water per week and never let the soil dry out. In wetland growing, maintain 2-4 inches of standing water. Taro is one of the few crops that literally cannot be overwatered. Yellowing leaves almost always mean more water is needed. Self-watering containers or pots set in trays of water work well for container growing.