Questions fréquentes

Most houseplants prefer the top inch of soil to dry out between waterings. Check by inserting your finger into the soil — if it feels dry at an inch deep, it's time to water. Overwatering is the #1 cause of houseplant death.

Early morning is ideal for outdoor plants. This allows leaves to dry during the day, reducing disease risk and minimizing evaporation. For indoor plants, time of day matters less — consistency is more important.

Signs of overwatering include yellow leaves (especially lower ones), wilting despite wet soil, mushy stems, mold on soil surface, and a sour smell from the pot. Let the soil dry out more between waterings and ensure good drainage.

For most vegetables, a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10 or similar) works well at planting time. When fruiting begins, switch to a formula higher in phosphorus and potassium (like 5-10-10). Always follow package directions — more is not better.

Most plants do fine with tap water. If your tap water is heavily chlorinated, let it sit overnight before watering to let the chlorine dissipate. Some sensitive plants (orchids, carnivorous plants) prefer distilled or rain water.

Water containers until water flows from drainage holes, then stop. Container plants dry out faster than garden beds — you may need to water daily in summer. Use pots with drainage holes and quality potting mix for best results.

Full sun means at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day. Most vegetables, herbs, and flowering plants need full sun. South-facing locations typically provide the most sun in the Northern Hemisphere.

Yes. Signs of too much sun include bleached or white patches on leaves, brown crispy edges, and wilting during the hottest part of the day. Shade-loving plants like ferns and hostas can be severely damaged by direct sun.

Snake plants, pothos, ZZ plants, and peace lilies all thrive in low-light conditions. They can survive with indirect light or even fluorescent office lighting. However, "low light" doesn't mean "no light" — all plants need some.

Most warm-season vegetables (tomatoes, peppers, squash) cannot tolerate temperatures below 50°F (10°C). Cool-season crops (lettuce, peas, spinach) can handle light frost down to 28°F (-2°C). Check your plant's hardiness zone for specifics.

Signs include leggy growth (long thin stems reaching toward light), pale or yellowing leaves, slow growth, and leaf drop. Try moving the plant closer to a window or supplementing with a grow light.

Use a quality potting mix — never garden soil in containers. Potting mix is lighter, drains better, and is sterile. Look for mixes with peat or coir, perlite, and vermiculite. Add extra perlite for succulents and cacti.

Soil pH measures acidity (below 7) or alkalinity (above 7). Most vegetables prefer slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0-7.0). Wrong pH locks out nutrients even if they're in the soil. Test with a simple kit from any garden center.

The general rule is to plant seeds at a depth of 2-3 times their diameter. Very small seeds (lettuce, carrots) are barely covered. Large seeds (beans, squash) go 1-2 inches deep. Always check the seed packet for specific instructions.

Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before your last frost date for most vegetables. Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant need the longest indoor start. Check your local frost date and count backwards from the seed packet's recommended lead time.

Add organic matter like compost, aged manure, or leaf mold — work in 2-4 inches each season. Avoid adding sand to clay (it creates concrete-like soil). Over time, organic matter improves drainage, aeration, and nutrient content.

Companion planting is growing certain plants together for mutual benefit. For example, basil planted near tomatoes may repel pests, and beans fix nitrogen that benefits nearby plants. Some plants should NOT be planted together (like fennel near most vegetables).

Spray them off with a strong stream of water. For persistent infestations, use insecticidal soap or neem oil. Attract beneficial insects like ladybugs by planting dill, fennel, or yarrow. Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides that kill beneficial insects too.

White spots are usually powdery mildew (a fungal disease). Improve air circulation, avoid wetting leaves, and treat with a baking soda spray (1 tbsp baking soda + 1 tsp dish soap per gallon of water). Neem oil is also effective.

Rotate crops yearly, water at the base (not overhead), ensure good air circulation, mulch to prevent soil splash, and remove infected leaves immediately. Choose disease-resistant varieties labeled "VF" or "VFNT" on the tag.

Spread crushed eggshells, diatomaceous earth, or copper tape around plants. Beer traps work too — bury a shallow dish of beer at soil level. Water in the morning instead of evening, as slugs are most active in damp nighttime conditions.

Yellow leaves can indicate overwatering, underwatering, nutrient deficiency (especially nitrogen or iron), too much direct sun, or natural aging. Lower leaf yellowing is often normal; widespread yellowing needs investigation.

Start cool-season crops (peas, lettuce, radishes) 4-6 weeks before last frost. Start warm-season crops (tomatoes, peppers) indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost, then transplant after all frost danger has passed. Check your local frost date.

Remove spent annual plants, add 2-3 inches of mulch over perennial beds, plant garlic and cover crops, clean and store tools, and drain hoses. Consider adding compost in fall — it will break down over winter and enrich the soil for spring.

Yes! Leafy greens (lettuce, spinach, herbs), microgreens, and sprouts grow well indoors with a sunny window or grow lights. Cherry tomatoes and peppers can also produce indoors with sufficient light (12-16 hours daily).

Cool-season crops thrive in fall: lettuce, spinach, kale, broccoli, carrots, beets, radishes, and garlic. Plant 6-8 weeks before your first expected frost. Many of these actually taste better after a light frost.

Cover plants with frost cloth, bed sheets, or overturned buckets before sunset. Water the soil well before a frost — moist soil retains heat better. Move container plants indoors or to a sheltered area. Remove covers in the morning after frost melts.