How to Grow Lilies: Complete Planting & Care Guide

How to Grow Lilies: Complete Planting & Care Guide

Lilies are among the most elegant and fragrant flowers you can grow in your garden. With their dramatic trumpet-shaped blooms, rich colors, and intoxicating perfume, lilies have been prized by gardeners for thousands of years. Best of all, they are remarkably easy to grow from bulbs, making them an excellent choice for beginners and experienced gardeners alike.

Whether you want towering Oriental lilies scenting your summer evenings or cheerful Asiatic lilies adding bold color to your borders, this guide covers everything from choosing the right bulb to enjoying years of reliable, spectacular blooms.

Quick Facts

Types of Lilies: Choosing the Right Variety

Not all lilies are the same. Understanding the main groups helps you pick the best varieties for your garden, bloom timing, and growing conditions.

Asiatic Lilies (Lilium asiaticum)

The easiest lilies for beginners. They bloom earliest (June), come in nearly every color, and tolerate a wide range of conditions. Most are unscented and grow 2-4 feet tall. Great for containers and borders.

Best varieties: Enchantment (orange-red), Tiny Bee (yellow dwarf), Landini (deep burgundy-black), Gran Paradiso (bright red).

Oriental Lilies (Lilium orientale)

The queens of fragrance. Oriental lilies produce large, heavily perfumed blooms in mid to late summer. They prefer slightly more acidic soil and partial afternoon shade in hot climates. Heights range from 3-6 feet.

Best varieties: Stargazer (pink with crimson spots), Casa Blanca (pure white), Dizzy (white with red stripes), Mona Lisa (soft pink).

Trumpet Lilies (Aurelian Hybrids)

Tall, stately plants with large, outward-facing trumpet blooms. They are strongly fragrant and bloom between Asiatic and Oriental seasons. Very hardy and disease-resistant.

Best varieties: Regale (white with purple exterior), Golden Splendor (deep gold), Pink Perfection (fuchsia-pink).

LA Hybrids (Longiflorum-Asiatic)

A cross between Easter lilies and Asiatics, combining large flowers with easy care and early bloom time. Lightly scented with sturdy stems.

OT Hybrids (Orienpet or Tree Lilies)

A cross between Oriental and trumpet lilies that produces enormous flowers on very tall stems (up to 6-8 feet). Fragrant, dramatic, and surprisingly hardy.

Best varieties: Scheherazade (crimson and gold), Silk Road (cream and crimson), Yelloween (soft yellow).

Species Lilies

Wild lilies like L. martagon (Turk's cap) and L. lancifolium (tiger lily) thrive in naturalized settings, woodland edges, and cottage gardens. They are the most hands-off option.

Lilies vs. Daylilies: What is the Difference?

This is one of the most common gardening confusions. True lilies (Lilium) grow from scaly bulbs, have a single central stem with leaves arranged along it, and produce flowers at the top of the stem. Daylilies (Hemerocallis) grow from tuberous roots, have grass-like foliage in a clump at the base, and each flower lasts only one day. Both are wonderful plants, but they have completely different care requirements. This guide covers true lilies (Lilium).

What You Will Need

Gather these supplies before planting:

• Lily bulbs (buy firm, plump bulbs with no soft spots or mold)
• Garden fork or spade for soil preparation
• Compost or aged manure for soil amendment
• Coarse sand, perlite, or grit for drainage improvement
• Balanced bulb fertilizer (5-10-10 or 10-10-10)
• Mulch (straw, shredded bark, or leaf mold)
• Stakes and soft ties (for tall varieties)
• Containers with drainage holes (if growing in pots, minimum 12 inches deep)

Step-by-Step Planting Guide

1. When to Plant

Plant lily bulbs in fall (September through November) for the strongest root establishment and best first-year blooms. Spring planting (March through May) also works but may produce fewer flowers the first season.

Unlike tulips and daffodils, lily bulbs never go fully dormant. They lack a papery outer covering, which means they dry out quickly if left unplanted. Plant your bulbs as soon as you receive them. If you must wait, store them in slightly damp peat moss in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.

2. Choosing the Right Location

Lilies follow a simple rule: heads in the sun, feet in the shade. The flower stems and blooms need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight for the strongest growth and most flowers. However, the roots and bulbs prefer cool, shaded soil.

Achieve this by:

• Planting among low-growing perennials or groundcovers that shade the soil
• Applying a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch
• Placing on the east side of taller plants that provide afternoon shade in very hot climates (Zones 8-9)

Wind protection is important for tall varieties. Plant near a fence, wall, or shrub border that blocks prevailing winds without blocking sunlight.

3. Preparing the Soil

Good drainage is the single most important factor for lily success. Lily bulbs will rot in waterlogged soil. If your garden has clay soil or stays wet after rain, take extra steps:

1. Dig the planting area 12-15 inches deep
2. Mix in generous amounts of compost (about 4 inches of compost worked into the top 12 inches of soil)
3. Add coarse sand, perlite, or fine gravel to heavy clay soil (about 20-25% by volume)
4. Test drainage: Dig a hole 12 inches deep, fill with water, and time how long it takes to drain. If water remains after 30 minutes, improve drainage further or consider raised beds

The ideal soil pH for lilies is 6.0 to 6.8 (slightly acidic to neutral). Most garden soils fall in this range. If your soil is alkaline (pH above 7.0), work in sulfur or peat moss to lower the pH. Avoid lime near lilies.

4. Planting the Bulbs

Follow these steps for each bulb:

1. Dig a hole 6-8 inches deep (the general rule is three times the height of the bulb)
2. Add a small handful of bulb fertilizer to the bottom of the hole and cover with 1 inch of soil so the bulb does not sit directly on fertilizer
3. Place the bulb pointed end up (the flat base with roots goes down)
4. Space bulbs 8-12 inches apart (closer spacing creates a fuller display; wider spacing allows better air circulation)
5. Backfill with amended soil and firm gently
6. Water deeply to settle the soil and encourage root growth
7. Apply 2-3 inches of mulch to insulate the bulbs and retain moisture

Container planting: Use a pot at least 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Place 3 bulbs per pot for a full display. Use a quality potting mix with added perlite for drainage. Make sure the container has drainage holes.

5. Watering

Lilies need consistent moisture but never soggy soil. This is the balancing act that determines success.

• During active growth (spring-summer): Water when the top 1-2 inches of soil feels dry. Provide about 1 inch of water per week, more during hot spells.
• Water at the base of the plant, not overhead. Wet foliage promotes botrytis (gray mold), the most common lily disease.
• Reduce watering after flowering as the foliage begins to yellow and die back naturally.
• In containers: Check daily during hot weather. Container soil dries out much faster than garden soil. Water until it flows from the drainage holes.

6. Fertilizing

Lilies are moderate feeders that benefit from consistent nutrition throughout the growing season.

• At planting: Work a balanced bulb fertilizer (5-10-10) into the planting hole
• When shoots emerge in spring: Apply a balanced granular fertilizer (10-10-10) around the base
• When buds appear: Switch to a high-potassium fertilizer (such as 5-10-15 or liquid tomato feed) to boost flower size and color
• After blooming: One final application of balanced fertilizer helps the bulb store energy for next year

Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers (like lawn feed), which encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers and can make stems weak and floppy.

7. Staking and Support

Many lily varieties grow tall enough to need support, especially in windy locations or when carrying multiple heavy blooms.

• Install stakes at planting time so you do not accidentally spear the bulb later
• Use bamboo canes, metal plant stakes, or decorative supports
• Loosely tie the stem to the stake with soft garden twine or plant clips as it grows
• Alternatively, plant among sturdy perennials (like catmint or salvia) that provide natural support

Care Through the Seasons

Spring

• Remove winter mulch gradually as shoots emerge
• Apply balanced fertilizer when growth reaches 6 inches
• Watch for lily beetle (bright red beetles on leaves)
• Begin staking tall varieties

Summer (Bloom Season)

• Switch to high-potassium fertilizer when buds form
• Water consistently, especially during dry spells
• Deadhead spent flowers by snapping off the bloom only — do not cut the stem
• Enjoy the display and cut stems for indoor arrangements if desired

After Blooming

• Leave the stem and foliage intact. This is critical. The leaves continue photosynthesizing and sending energy back to the bulb for next year's growth. Cutting the foliage prematurely weakens the bulb and reduces next year's flowers.
• Allow foliage to die back naturally (this takes 6-8 weeks after flowering)
• Once the stem is completely brown and dry, cut it to ground level
• Apply a final round of balanced fertilizer

Fall and Winter

• Apply 3-4 inches of mulch over the planting area after the ground begins to cool
• In containers, move pots to a sheltered location or insulate with bubble wrap in cold climates
• Lily bulbs need a cold period (vernalization) to bloom well, so do not bring garden-planted bulbs indoors

Growing Lilies in Containers

Lilies make outstanding container plants. Here are the key tips:

• Pot size: Minimum 12 inches deep and wide. Larger is better for tall varieties.
• Soil: Use a premium potting mix with 20% added perlite for drainage
• Bulbs per pot: 3 bulbs in a 12-inch pot, 5 in a 16-inch pot
• Placement: Full sun position on a patio, deck, or balcony
• Winter care: In Zones 3-6, move containers to an unheated garage or shed. The bulbs need cold but should not freeze solid. In Zones 7-9, containers can stay outdoors.
• Repotting: Every 2-3 years, lift and divide bulbs, refresh the potting mix

Common Problems and Solutions

Lily Beetle (Red Lily Beetle)

The number one pest for lily growers. These bright scarlet beetles and their orange-brown larvae devour leaves and buds. Check plants daily in spring and early summer. Hand-pick adults and larvae (they drop to the ground when disturbed, so hold a container beneath them). For serious infestations, use neem oil spray early in the season. Remove and destroy any reddish-brown frass (larval excrement) found on the undersides of leaves.

Botrytis (Gray Mold)

A fungal disease that causes brown spots on leaves and gray fuzzy mold in humid conditions. Prevent by spacing bulbs for good air circulation, watering at the base instead of overhead, and removing any affected foliage promptly. In severe cases, apply a fungicide labeled for botrytis.

Bulb Rot

Usually caused by waterlogged soil. Prevention is key: ensure excellent drainage before planting. If a bulb becomes soft and mushy, remove it immediately to prevent spread. Do not replant in the same spot without improving drainage first.

Aphids

Small green or black insects that cluster on stems and buds. A strong spray of water usually knocks them off. For persistent problems, use insecticidal soap or neem oil. Encourage ladybugs and lacewings, which are natural predators.

Deer and Rabbits

Lilies are a favorite snack for deer. Options include physical barriers (fencing or netting), commercial deer repellent sprays (reapply after rain), or planting among strong-scented plants like alliums or lavender that deer tend to avoid.

No Blooms

If your lilies produce healthy foliage but no flowers, the most common causes are: insufficient sunlight (they need 6+ hours), bulbs planted too shallow, overcrowding (divide every 3-4 years), or cutting foliage too soon the previous year.

Dividing and Propagating Lilies

Lilies multiply naturally underground, forming new bulbs around the original. Every 3-4 years, dig up the clump in fall after foliage has died back:

1. Carefully lift the entire clump with a garden fork
2. Gently separate the individual bulbs
3. Discard any soft, damaged, or very small bulbs
4. Replant the healthy bulbs immediately at the proper depth and spacing
5. Water well and mulch

You can also propagate from bulb scales: remove a few outer scales from a healthy bulb, place them in a bag of damp vermiculite, and store in a warm dark place. Small bulblets form at the base of each scale in 6-8 weeks. Plant these out the following spring. They will take 2-3 years to reach flowering size.

Companion Planting

Lilies look stunning and grow better when paired with the right companions:

• Low-growing perennials (geraniums, catmint, salvia) shade the soil and support stems
• Alliums deter lily beetles with their strong scent
• Ferns create a beautiful textural contrast and keep roots cool
• Roses bloom at the same time and share similar soil preferences
• Lavender adds fragrance contrast and deters browsing animals
• Hostas provide shade for lily roots in partial shade gardens

Avoid planting near: Fennel (inhibits growth of many plants), invasive spreaders that will compete for space.

Cutting Lilies for Indoor Arrangements

Lilies make spectacular cut flowers that last 7-14 days in a vase:

• Cut stems in the morning when buds are just starting to open (showing color but not fully unfurled)
• Cut no more than one-third of the stem length to leave enough foliage for bulb health
• Remove lower leaves that would sit below the waterline
• Remove the orange pollen-laden anthers before they open to prevent staining clothes, tablecloths, and furniture
• Change vase water every 2-3 days and add floral preservative
• Keep arrangements away from direct sunlight and fruit (ethylene gas from fruit shortens flower life)

Important note for cat owners: All parts of true lilies are extremely toxic to cats. Even pollen or water from the vase can cause fatal kidney failure. If you have cats, enjoy your lilies exclusively in the outdoor garden and never bring cut stems indoors.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to plant lily bulbs?

Fall is the best time to plant lily bulbs, ideally in September through November before the ground freezes. Fall planting gives the bulbs several months to establish roots before winter, resulting in stronger plants and more flowers the first spring. You can also plant in early spring (March-April) as soon as the soil is workable, but expect slightly fewer blooms the first year. Unlike many spring bulbs, lily bulbs do not have a protective papery coating, so plant them as soon as possible after purchase to prevent drying out.

How deep should I plant lily bulbs?

Plant lily bulbs 6-8 inches deep, measured from the base of the bulb to the soil surface. A reliable rule of thumb is to plant at a depth equal to three times the height of the bulb. Planting deep enough is important because lilies produce roots both below the bulb and along the buried portion of the stem. These stem roots provide extra stability and nutrition. Planting too shallow leads to wobbly stems and smaller flowers.

Do lilies come back every year?

Yes, true lilies are reliable perennials that come back year after year in Zones 3-9, often multiplying and producing more blooms each season. The key to ensuring they return is leaving the foliage intact after flowering until it dies back naturally, providing adequate winter mulch in cold climates, and ensuring the soil drains well so bulbs do not rot over winter. Many gardeners enjoy their lily plantings for 10-20 years or more with minimal care.

Are lilies toxic to cats?

Yes, all true lilies (Lilium species) are extremely toxic to cats. Every part of the plant — flowers, leaves, stems, pollen, and even the water in the vase — can cause acute kidney failure in cats, which can be fatal even with treatment. If you have cats, grow lilies only in areas your cats cannot access, and never bring cut lily stems indoors. If you suspect your cat has ingested any part of a lily, contact your veterinarian or the ASPCA Poison Control hotline immediately.

How do I stop lily beetles from eating my plants?

Start checking your lilies daily from early spring when the first shoots appear. Lily beetles are bright red and easy to spot. Hand-pick adults and crush them (they play dead and drop to the ground when disturbed, so hold a white container below to catch them). Check the undersides of leaves for orange-brown larvae covered in dark frass. Remove and destroy these immediately. For heavy infestations, apply neem oil spray every 7-10 days during the active season. Some gardeners report success with companion planting alliums nearby, as their strong scent may deter the beetles.